Leah Alice

02/04/2013

Swiss Darning

Filed under: Handknits, Vintage — Miss Leah Alice @ 5:54 am

I have of late been asked to see what I could do about some holes in some vintage sweaters.  A vintage clothing dealer friend has an amazing personal collection of vintage sweaters and frequently these are found with moth holes and other damage.  This particular sweater that I recently worked on had a variety of issues.  Whoever wore this one apparently enjoyed wearing it sans t-shirt, and it is a great poster child for how lethal perspiration can be on fabrics and yarn.  Not only did this guy’s sweat discolor the yarn but it also ate through it, causing the fibers to totally disintegrate.

When I first started repairing knits, I was using the kitchener stitch to recreate stockinette stitch, but I found that it wasn’t useful if the hole was large and the stitches had dropped down more than 1 or 2 rows, which was most of the time.  If I used kitchener on larger holes, the tension, which is difficult to equalize to begin with, would be all wrong, causing the fabric to pucker or otherwise look really wonky.

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So after a bit of research on the internets, I discovered some graphics of swiss darning.  In this method, a thin thread is used to loosely join the intact stitches the edges of the hole, resulting in long, somewhat taut threads that you can use as a foundation to rebuild multiple rows of unraveled stitching.

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It should be noted that this process is a huge pain in the ass.  It’s slow and fussy with lots of trial and error.  You need plenty of light, the proper tools, excellent vision, and lots of patience.

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But it’s so worth it when you get to save gorgeous vintage sweaters!

On a side note, it was really difficult to photograph this sweater.  Maybe because it’s red?  The discoloration came out looking extremely saturated both in natural and artificial lights.  Anyone know why?

Photographic issues aside now, check out some other vintage sweaters now, like these from datedvintagestyle.  And for god’s sake, wear a t-shirt!

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01/24/2013

My Mom’s Mittens

Filed under: Handknits — Miss Leah Alice @ 4:40 pm

I hate winter.

But the forecast this week reminded me of these mittens I knitted for my mom a few years ago.  I don’t remember if the pattern came from Nancy Bush’s Folk Knitting in Estonia or Selbuvotter: Biography of a Knitting Tradition by Terri Shea, but but both are amazing books filled dozens of photos of samples of the intricate colorwork found in the traditional knits from this part of the world.  These mittens were an exploratory project — I at the time entertained the notion of making a sweater like this.  I’m remembering that I had to felt them because they turned out quite large.  When I did, the colors in the cuff melted together beautifully and really brought out the pattern.  The hand didn’t do quite the same, and now, looking back, I would line them with some soft silk fabric or a piece of felt to match the thickness of the cuff and to make them extra windproof.

So, happy winter!  I think I will bring my needles on the train with me today.

01/14/2013

2012 Redux, 2013 Forecast

Filed under: Wardrobe — Miss Leah Alice @ 5:10 am

My great wish for 2013 is to use my blog more!  I’ve been remiss here in the last year.  My thanks to WordPress for sending me the panicky domain expiration email — it got me logged back in and wanting to show more of my recent work.

I feel pretty good that my excuse for not being on here much is that I’ve had a year that was blessed by the job gods and I worked on the crews of some great plays, namely Rutherford & Son, Love Goes to Press, and Mary Broome, all at The Mint Theater; and the New Voices Directing Festival at the New School for Drama.  I was also extremely pleased to have assisted costume designer Martha Hally on Mary Broome and the upcoming Katie Roche, both at the Mint.  Katie Roche previews begin on January 26th, and until then, I’ll be immersed in the process of sorting through tweed jackets, vintage cotton print dresses, leather lace-up boots, and low-heeled t-straps.  This Irish play from 1936 by Theresa Deevy is a lot of fun to work on, especially for someone like me who loves vintage fashion.

Speaking of which, another of my great goals for 2013 is to officially launch my Etsy shop.  For the past year or so, I’ve been amassing a little collection of vintage pieces from the 50s and 60s and aim to get it photographed and online by the end of February.  I’ve loved this process — each time I acquire a new piece, I try to find out as much as possible about its provenance through researching the labels and its construction.  It’s a great hands-on way to learn more about fashion history and culture.

And to wrap up, I’ve spent a bit of 2012 improving my sewing prowess and will share some photos of the results of my efforts in the coming year.  I’m working on some clothing, but I also have some home accessories that I made with some vintage fabric remnants I bought just before Christmas at the most amazing ever store Stella Dallas in Williamsburg.

I leave you with a video from the first rehearsal for Katie Roche: if you’re in New York this winter, go see it!

02/16/2012

Feathers!

Filed under: Uncategorized — Miss Leah Alice @ 6:27 am

Last fall, I had a wonderful opportunity to meet and work with Rosi Zingales, one of Broadway’s most reputable drapers, at Studio Rouge in Manhattan.  As a handstitcher and finisher for costume pieces for the US tours of the Broadway musicals La Cage Aux Folles and Jersey Boys, I learned volumes from working with Rosi.  While it would seem impossible to execute designs as the speed at which she does while still maintaining an impeccable attention to detail, Rosi nevertheless showed me that it is not only possible but absolutely essential.  I’m grateful to her for the invaluable advice and attention she gave me even while on a strict deadline.  Here are a few photos of the feathered tutus we made for La Cage Aux Folles.


Rosi also has a line of children’s clothes and blankets that are super adorable!

08/26/2011

Temporal Powers Opening at The Mint Theater

Filed under: Wardrobe — Miss Leah Alice @ 5:38 am

Teresa Deevy’s Temporal Powers opens at the Mint Theater on August 29!  I’m very proud to be working on this production (my second at the Mint).  This is a complex story of right versus wrong, God versus self, of a relationship tested by circumstance.  Not light fare in the least, but it’s a wonderfully crafted story with rich characters who will draw you in and have you rapt until the curtain comes down.  Maybe even long after.

What I love most about working at the Mint is the chance to work with fashion history.  I have always loved vintage clothing and have tended to have an anachronistic personal style; the Mint’s mission to resurrect neglected plays means that I get to apply that on a professional level to help resurrect the fashion of a bygone era.

Right now, I’m in 1927 rural Ireland and am charged with the care of Andrea Varga‘s authentic costumes.  I enjoyed each day of rehearsals with Andrea because I learned so much from her.  I watched as she layered each piece with the details that help tell each character’s story, from the patches on Min’s frock to the airbrushed dirt on Michael’s woolen suit to the mud on Lizzie’s homemade calico dress.  Over the course of rehearsal week, the costumes were transformed until they blended harmoniously into the set and brought each character to vibrant life.

Aidan Redmond and Rosie Benton as Michael and Min Donovan. Photo by Richard Termine.

I hope to one day have the chance to design a period piece.  As I make repairs backstage, I love thinking about who the characters are and what they might choose to wear given their gender, their occupation, or their personal history.  I think about who might have made the repair on each piece and how they would have done it.  Were they skilled at sewing?  Did they have lots of time to do it?  What materials would they have had to work with?

Eli James and Wrenn Schmidt as Moses Barron and Lizzie Brennan. Photo by Richard Termine.

Temporal Powers runs through October 2.  Come see us at the Mint!

07/21/2011

Filed under: Wardrobe — Miss Leah Alice @ 6:17 pm

Excellent news!  I am now the Wardrobe Supervisor at The Mint Theater.  I jumped in right in the middle of A Little Journey, by Rachel Crothers, which closed Sunday, July 17.

In this three act drama set in 1914, strangers’ lives intersect as a cross-country train bound for San Francisco departs from New York.

It’s been fascinating to work with these period costumes.  I love to get lost in details and clothes from this era have much in that department.  Fine leather on lace-up boots, crisp ruffled blouses, buttons and bowties; fans and feathers; lacework petticoats and elaborate shining timepieces.  I was in love!

I’ve got a short break, then it’s back to work on the Mint’s next production, Temporal Powers, by Teresa Deevy.  Come see!

03/02/2011

Wrapped in Scraps

Filed under: Wardrobe — Miss Leah Alice @ 7:12 am

Photo by Francisco Cervi

The debut performance of the Brooklyn Follies at Galapagos Art Space last November was my first foray into costuming and a study in making do.  For this Duncanesque piece, the choreographer bought some vintage ladies’ slips from Housing Works.  The slips were all size large, but none of these nymphs were.  So I took them in all over and added gold-detailed sashes (actually wrapping ribbon) to cinch the waists.  Then, I took the scraps leftover from shortening the skirts and stitched them to the left shoulders for some toga-inspired drape.   The resulting tunics were understated and classically beautiful.

Button Up Raglan

Filed under: Handknits — Miss Leah Alice @ 6:36 am

This is one of my first designs which I’ve finally gotten around to photographing.  Made with Koigu’s Painter’s Palette Premium Merino, the best feature of this sweater is versatility of the neck.  It buttons all the way up to a mock turtle, and unbuttons all the way down to the left side of the chest.  I like to wear it halfway undone and let it drape how it will.

01/11/2011

Knitted

Filed under: Handknits — Miss Leah Alice @ 6:21 pm

I’m so pleased that my knitting is part of Joelle Hoverson’s most recent book, More Last Minute Knitted Gifts, published by Stewart, Tabori & Chang in 2010.  Below are pieces from the book that I either designed or knitted.  All photos are by Anna Williams.

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